CLASS;J S S 1 WEEK 5
TOPIC; MAKE UP IN DRAMA
Makeup refers to things that is used to assist in creating the appearance of the characters that actors portray during a theater production.
Make-up, also known as Cosmetics , are substances or products used to enhance or alter the appearance or fragrance of the body. Many cosmetics are designed for use of applying to the face and hair. They are generally mixtures of chemical compounds; some being derived from natural sources (such as coconut oil), and some being synthetics.[1] Common cosmetics include lipstick, mascara, eye shadow, foundation, rouge, skin cleansers and skin lotions, shampoo, hairstyling products (gel, hair spray, etc.), perfume and cologne.
In the U.S., the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), which regulates cosmetics defines cosmetics as “intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body’s structure or functions”. This broad definition includes any material intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product. The FDA specifically excludes soap from this category.
TYPES
Cosmetics are intended to be applied externally. They include but are not limited to products that can be applied to the face: skin-care creams, lipsticks, eye and facial makeup, towe lettes, and colored contact lenses; to the body: deodorants, lotions, powders, perfumes, baby products, bath oils, bubble baths, bath salts, and body butters; to the hands/nails: fingernail and toe nail polish, and hand sanitizer; to the hair: permanent chemicals, hair colors, hair sprays, and gels.
A subset of cosmetics is called “make-up”, refers primarily to products containing color pigments that are intended to alter the user’s appearance. Manufacturers may distinguish between “decorative” and “care” cosmetics.
Cosmetics that are meant to be used on the face and eye area are usually applied with a brush, a makeup sponge, or the fingertips.
Most cosmetics are distinguished by the area of the body intended for application.
- Primer comes in formulas to suit individual skin conditions. Most are meant to reduce the appearance of pore size, prolong the wear of makeup, and allow for a smoother application of makeup. Primers are applied before foundation or eyeshadows depending on where the primer is to be applied.
- Lipstick, lip gloss, lip liner, lip plumper, lip balm, lip stain, lip conditioner, lip primer, lip boosters, and lip butters: Lipsticks are intended to add color and texture to the lips and often come in a wide range of colors, as well as finishes such as matte, satin, and lustre. Lip stains have a water or gel base and may contain alcohol to help the product stay on leaving a matte look. They temporarily saturate the lips with a dye. Usually designed to be waterproof, the product may come with an applicator brush, rollerball, or could be applied with a finger. Lip glosses are intended to add shine to the lips and may add a tint of color, as well as being scented or flavored for a pop of fun. Lip balms are most often used to moisturize, tint, and protect the lips. Some brands contain sunscreen.
- Concealer makeup covers imperfections of the skin. Concealer is often used for any extra coverage needed to cover blemishes, under eye circles, and other imperfections. Concealer is often thicker and more solid than foundation, and provides longer lasting, more detailed coverage as well as creating a fresh clean base for all the rest of the makeup.
. Some formulations are intended only for the eye or only for the face. This product can also be used for contouring the face like ones nose, cheekbones, and jaw line to add a more defined look to the total face.
- Foundation is used to smooth out the face and cover spots, acne, blemishes, or uneven skin coloration. These are sold in a liquid, cream, or powder, or most recently a mousse. Foundation provides coverage from sheer to matt to dewey or full.[2] Foundation primer can be applied before or after foundation to obtain a smoother finish. Some primers come in powder or liquid form to be applied before foundation as a base, while other primers come as a spray to be applied after the foundation to set the make-up and help it last longer throughout the day.
- Face powder sets the foundation, giving it a matte finish, and to conceal small flaws or blemishes. It can also be used to bake the foundation, so that it stays on longer. Tinted face powders may be worn alone as a light foundation so that the full face does not look as caked-up as it could.
- Rouge, blush, or blusher is cheek coloring to bring out the color in the cheeks and make the cheekbones appear more defined. Rouge comes in powder, cream, and liquid forms. Different blush colors are used to compliment different skin tones.
- Contour powders and creams are used to define the face. They can give the illusion of a slimmer face or to modify a face shape in other desired ways. Usually a few shades darker than the skin tone and matte in finish, contour products create the illusion of depth. A darker-toned foundation/concealer can be used instead of contour products for the same purpose.
- Highlight, used to draw attention to the high points of the face as well as to add glow, comes in liquid, cream, and powder forms. It often contains a substance to provide shimmer. Alternatively, a lighter-toned foundation/concealer can be used.
- Bronzer gives skin a bit of color by adding a golden or bronze glow and highlighting the cheekbones, as well as being used for contouring. Bronzer is considered to be more of a natural look and can be used for an everyday wear. Bronzer enhances the color of the face while adding more of a shimmery look. It comes in either matte, semi matte/satin, or shimmer finishes.
Straight makeup
Skin
If a performer’s skin is perfectly toned, makeup spreads smoothly and adheres easily. Dry skin or oily skin is dealt with prior to makeup application; otherwise, the makeup appears blotchy or smeared due to variations in absorption. Performers with dry skin use a moisturizer daily and after their faces have been cleansed following a performance. Performers with oily complexions use a facial toner wipe or astringent to remove the oil and allow a smooth application.
Skin has four basic tones: brown, fair, pink and olive. Individuals with fair, pink, and olive skin tones use olive, beige, or suntan bases. Makeup artist and performers select shades compatible with the natural skin tone, but the base is one to several shades deeper. Performers with predominately pink or ruddy complexions use base colors with cool undertones. The character, size of the theatre, and light intensity will determine the tone depth of the foundation.
A thin layer of base makeup is applied to the neck, ears, and face using a white rubber sponge or fingers. A heavy application of base appears aged and creepy.
Rouge
Fair complexions are enhanced by soft shades of peach and pink, while brown complexions are best accented with coral shades. Moist rouge is applied before powder; dry rouge is used to accent the already powdered makeup.
Eyes
Eyes and eyebrows are the greatest communicative tool in an actor’s arsenal. They are the most expressive feature on the face.
Grease or stick shadow is applied to the eyelids and blended out toward the eyebrow bone before powder is applied; dry eye shadow is used alone or to intensify and touch up the color underneath. Dark eye shadow or grease deepens the eye sockets, creating a skull-like effect. Shades of brown and gray are best for individuals with fair complexions. Individuals with brown complexions use lighter shadows such as toast, mushroom or soft yellows.
Eye liner
Liquid eyeliner, cake eyeliner, or the eyebrow pencil is used to accent and frame the eyes. There are two ways to line the upper lid of the eye: the owl eye or the almond eye. The owl eye is used to widen the eye and involves using a heavier line in the middle of the lid. The almond-shaped eye is created by extending the line out beyond the outer corner of the eye. The lower line is created by using the same tool used on the upper lid. The line begins a quarter-inch from the inner corner of the eye. This extra space is needed to open the eye.
Eyelashes
Mascara is used to add extra attention to the eyes. Black lash mascara is the most popular and commonly used by women with fair and brown complexions. Very fair individuals and men use brown mascara. The bottom lashes are coated with mascara and to avoid using false lashes, a process of layering powder and mascara is used to provide greater thickness.
Powder
A generous amount of powder is needed to reduce unwanted shine. If a performer’s makeup is under-powdered, his skin oils will break through quickly, producing shine and possibly running. After powder is applied to the entire face, starting under and around the eyes, it is gently pressed for thirty seconds. The excess is brushed off with a large soft brush or piece of cotton. A wet natural sponge or cotton is wiped lightly across the face to set the makeup, to remove any visible powder, and to eliminate the mask feeling.
Translucent powders are used for fair complexions because they do not alter the original color of the base, the under-rouge, or the moist eye shadow. Brown complexions are set with tinted that is compatible with the base color. It is used sparingly over the under-rouge and moist eye shadow. After the powder is applied, dry eye shadow and dry rouge are added.
Lips
Applied makeup to the lips and cheeks assisting in the conveyance of emotion.
Though the eyes are the most expressive feature of the face, the eyes and ears of the audience follow mouth movements to understand a play’s progression. If a performer’s lips are underdone or overplayed, they will detract from the performer and the performance. A general rule is: the larger the mouth, the deeper the lipstick tone. However, the actor should not appear “all mouth”.
Fair complexions use shades of lipstick like pink and coral. Brown complexions are enhanced by coral and orange shades. Red lipsticks are reserved for large theatres and character portrayals. An auburn or brown pencil are used to provide definition to the lips. Lipsticks on men can look doll-like. Men use natural-colored lipsticks, lightly applied.
Makeup and lighting
Lighting controls makeup to a high degree. Makeup can lose its effectiveness due to incorrect stage lighting. Conversely, skillful lighting can greatly aid the art of makeup. Close communication between the lighting director and the makeup artist is crucial for the best possible effect.
Understanding light’s effect on makeup and various shades and pigments is important when designing a performer’s makeup. The following are among the basic rules of light: nothing has color until light is reflected from it; an object appears black when all of the light is absorbed; an object appears white when all of the light is reflected. If certain rays are absorbed and others are reflected, the reflected rays determine the color.